Go to Medellin. Don't take the bus.

Pictures: Wishes Park in Medellin and Ciclovia in Medellin

Hola amigos!

We've been in Colombia for 6 weeks today! When we were here last summer we went home after exactly six weeks, and when we were here before six weeks seemed like forever. This time it doesn't feel like it has been six weeks at all. In fact, I've been teaching for 3 weeks, but based on what my students have actually managed to learn, I would say it feels like I've been teaching for about 3 hours.

But, for now, that's not the point. I absolutely must tell you about something far more interesting: Medellin.

We went to Medellin last weekend. It was something Warren and I had wanted to do but never actually had time for until Kevin forced us to go. The people from LPV rave about Medellin--they all like it more than Bogota--and I was curious to find out what all the hype is about.

Well, let me just tell you now: It's not hype. Medellin is by far the most beautiful and modern city I've seen in Colombia. It has a metro. It has mountains. It has lush green parks and an amazing botanical garden. I loved it.

I didn't love the trip there, however. We took the bus. For six hours. Up, around, down, and through the mountains. I have never vomited so much is such a short period in my entire life. I don't know if it was the altitude, the crazy driving, the turns, or the really bad food we ate at the required stop, but I was sick. Really sick.

After we finally got to Medellin, we found a taxi and ask him to take us to our hotel. He didn't know where it was. He drove around in circles. He asked other taxi drivers (and completely ignored their directions). After about 15 minutes of this, he deposited us at a park and took our money. We found another taxi driver, asked him if he knew where the hotel was before we got in the taxi. Of course he knew. Everyone knew. The first taxi driver? Just messin' with us. Jerk.

Needless to say, by the time we checked in to our hotel and found the Olympic Opening Ceremony on ESPN, I was a very crabby person.

Let it be a testament to Medellin, then, that I am still thinking about how awesome our weekend was and all week long I've been talking about going back.

Saturday morning we woke up early and had a delightful breakfast on the top floor of our hotel, which overlooked the Poblado neighborhood and the mountains. We then went to the airport to buy tickets for a flight home. (No more buses for me, thank you very much.) After that, we grabbed a taxi and headed to the Botanical Gardens. Then we wandered through the city, sometimes taking the metro, sometimes taking a taxi... and we were able to see gorgeous churches, the Plaza Botero, and a cultural center. Eventually we ended up at a snazzy Italian place for lunch. After a little siesta, we headed out into the city again.

The metro in Medellin connects to a line of cable-cars (like covered ski lifts or the gondolas in Switzerland) that each hold about 8 people. The little lifts zip up the side of the mountain and connect the very poor neighborhoods to the main metro system. We decided to go up in the lifts at dusk. As we rose high above the city, we could see the sunset and the lights begin to flicker on below us. The neighborhood directly under us was poor, but--and I hesitate to say this because I don't want to offend anyone--it seemed happy. Children played and laughed in the streets, a bar played loud salsa music, and the residents bustled below us, enjoying their Saturday night. It was strange to peer into the lives of the poor from above them, but it really made those neighborhoods come alive for me. Instead of ramshackle buildings, I saw the people who lived in them. It was eye-opening in so many ways. I have been used to feeling sorry for the poor in Colombia, and I am still very concerned about the economic disparity here--but now I understand that the slums are full of people, and despite it all, happiness exists there. I don't need to pity them. I can fight for their rights, I can donate money, maybe someday I'll even be able to help bring them quality education... but I don't have to pity them.

But anyway. We took the lifts up to the Spanish Library (paid for by the King and Queen of Spain a few years ago). It is supposed to look like giant boulders sticking out from the side of the mountain. We looked out over the city as night settled into the valley. It was beautiful.

That night we saw Up in the Air at a nice movie theater in the Poblado neighborhood. (It was great, by the way.) It was so nice to see a movie in English. (Not too many show in P---.)

Sunday morning we woke to the best surprise of all: Ciclovia! Every Sunday morning the city closes down a lot of the main streets and turns them into a pedestrian/bicycle/skating path. We quickly ate our breakfast and joined the masses as they walked and biked down streets that are normally packed with cars. It was the coolest thing I've ever experienced in a big city. After we got some exercise, we relaxed with a coffee at Juan Valdez and shopped for school supplies at Office Depot (I know, lame).

Eventually, we made our way to the little domestic airport, flew back to P---, and watched the sunset over the city during our last evening in Stellita's apartment. (That's right--we moved!)

Anyway, I highly recommend Medellin. There's a tango festival in June, a flower festival in August, and the best Christmas light festival in South America in December. I just need to figure out when I can go back again!